How to cook the perfect chicken korma
A bland curry for the unadventurous or a noble dish worthy of Mughal emperors? Do you add fruit and nuts, is yoghurt better than cream – and would you be caught dead ordering it in a curry house?
The perfect chicken korma. Photograph: Felicity Cloake/Guardian
The poor old korma would be well justified in seeking revenge on the British palate in this world or the next. A noble dish that once graced the banquet tables of the imperial Mughal court, rich with cream and nuts and heavily scented with expensive spice, has become a byword for bland, a “starter” curry, beloved of children and others with unadventurous tastes. As Lizzie Collingham writes in her book, Curry: a Biography, the name korma has become a codeword for anything “mild and creamy”, just as vindaloo carries the warning sign: HOT!
And though, having grown up on them (before graduating to the spicy heights of the chicken tikka masala), I have to admit a certain residual fondness for the almost marzipan-like flavours of a classic British curry house korma, I think we’re all big enough now to appreciate the more sophisticated flavours of the real deal. Which, despite my distinct lack of imperial kitchen space, proves surprisingly simple to make at home.






